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Men in Black, by John Harvey
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Mr. Pink:
"Why can't we pick out our own color?"
Joe:
"I tried that once, it don't work. You get four guys fighting over who's gonna be Mr. Black."
—Quentin Tarantino, Reservoir Dogs
Men's clothes went black in the nineteenth century. Dickens, Ruskin and Baudelaire all asked why it was, in an age of supreme wealth and power, that men wanted to dress as if going to a funeral. The answer is in this history of the color black. Over the last 1000 years there have been successive expansions in the wearing of black—from the Church to the Court, from the Court to the merchant class. Though black as fashion was often smart and elegant, its growth as a cultural marker was fed by several currents in Europe's history—in politics, asceticism, religious warfare. Only in the nineteenth century, however, did black fully come into its own as fashion, the most telling witnesses constantly saw connections between the taste for black and the forms of constraint with which European society regimented itself.
Concentrating on the general shift away from color that began around 1800, Harvey traces the transition to black from the court of Burgundy in the 15th century, through 16th-century Venice, 17th-century Spain and the Netherlands. He uses paintings from Van Eyck and Degas to Francis Bacon, religious art, period lithographs, wood engravings, costume books, newsphotos, movie stills and related sources in his compelling study of the meaning of color and clothes.
Although in the twentieth century tastes have moved toward new colors, black has retained its authority as well as its associations with strength and cruelty. At the same time black is still smart, and fashion keeps returning to black. It is, perhaps, the color that has come to acquire the greatest, most significant range of meaning in history.
- Sales Rank: #1288201 in Books
- Published on: 1996-12-15
- Released on: 1996-12-15
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.38" h x .50" w x 6.13" l, 1.20 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 280 pages
From Library Journal
In this thoughtful, scholarly work, Harvey (English, Cambridge) explores the use of the color black in menswear in Western Europe during the last 500 years. By numerous quotations and illustrations from historical and literary sources, he proves his thesis that black, ostensibly a symbol of piety, humility, or sorrow, was actually a form of "power dressing." From early clergy, Renaissance kings, and aristocracy through the 19th-century middle class, when it seemed that all men wore it, black connoted financial, social, or political success. As women gained power of their own in this century, so did they, too, adopt "basic black" for more than just mourning. Harvey examines the place of black in today's multihued culture. Arguably the best contribution to the growing body of literature on the meaning of clothes and colors (joining the works of Anne Hollander, Fred Davis, et al.), this title is highly recommended for academic and specialized collections.
Therese D. Baker, Western Kentucky Univ. Libs., Bowling Green
Copyright 1996 Reed Business Information, Inc.
From Booklist
Men began wearing black for all occasions during the early part of the nineteenth century. Harvey, a lecturer at the University of Cambridge, analyzes this somber color preference from several intriguing perspectives. He conducts a deft but detailed survey of the wearing of black in Europe over the centuries, noting that black has long been the color of mourning and that its use was further restricted by the difficulty and expense of the manufacture of black cloth. Once the Industrial Revolution got under way, black cloth became readily available and very popular. Many writers of the day, especially Dickens and Baudelaire, reflected on the implications of this funereal trend, a theme Harvey explores in extended chapters of literary analysis. He also discusses the work of such painters as Manet, Tissot, and Sargent and their interpretation of the power of black clothing: its authority, elegance, sexuality, melancholy, and romance and how it worked in sharp contrast to women's airy white attire. As Harvey's history progresses, he tracks the emergence of black in women's fashion and discusses religious and military garb as well as the twentieth-century black-leather mystique. A touch academic but the subject is irresistible. Donna Seaman
Review
It's the claim of some books that they will change your life, Men in Black makes no such claim, yet it undoubtedly will if you read it ... a brilliantly sustained, illuminating and subtle disquisition on the malaise of nineteenth and twentieth-century English society - you will probably never put on a black garment again, man or woman, without resonating like a tuning fork with the memory of what you have read. Literary Review The precision of Mr Harvey's commentary and the ease with which he wears his research and learning make Men in Black seem like a walk through history by someone who knows what he's talking about ... always interesting and beautifully written. The Washington Times
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